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Mecca on the Seine Couscous, hammans, hookahs, and mosques: City of Light's 'culture arabe' By Ethan Gilsdorf, Globe Correspondent, 9/1/2002
My wife, Isabelle, and I are seated in this neighborhood Algerian eatery in the east Paris quarter of Menilmontant, one unofficial center of the city's North African and Muslim community. Eating elbow-to-elbow with extended families and couples crowding the cramped tables only warms us to the charms of the place. Just behind the counter, we see the hair dryer in action, fanning the grill where skewers of chicken, lamb, and calves' brains are being cooked before our eyes. Run by a genial cadre of men, the unpretentious Restaurant des Quatre Freres serves up some of the cheapest heaps of fluffy couscous this side of Mecca. Welcoming and friendly, it has turned us into regulars. We sample the ''chlita,'' a tasty spread of onions, tomatoes, and green peppers. When the huge bowl of vegetarian stew for the couscous maison arrives, accompanied by a tray of semolina and sided with grilled lamb, beef, or chicken, we are again reminded of our fortune: a mountain of home cooking, for less than $6 each. Isabelle stirs a spoonful of harissa sauce into her broth for extra zing. Neither beer nor wine is served here - a Muslim taboo - and there's nothing for dessert. So we finish off the meal with a ''the a la menthe'': fresh-brewed mint tea, served in little glass cups. Should you happen to be so lucky as to dine in a Muslim-run establishment during Ramadan, the annual holy month of fasting, come sundown, when the masses are entitled to eat, you'll be treated to a feast and a special menu. Such is Paris life on the hip-trashy Rue Oberkampf, the heart of the 11th arrondissement and the common ground for students, artists, blue-collar families, and a half-dozen immigrant groups from Asia, West Africa, and what is known as ''le Maghreb,'' the Mediterranean coastal zone once colonized by France: Tunisia, Morocco, and Algeria. Americans who are intimidated about travel to Arab or Islamic nations can sample the region right here in Paris. It's a testament to the capital's success as a melting pot that you'll find no ghettos; nearly every neighborhood has its corner ''Grec'' or Turkish shwarma sandwich and fries shop, and a decent couscous restaurant. But the streets off the Boulevards de la Villette, Belleville, and Menilmontant - studded with small cafes, bars, markets, and eateries - are particularly rich and welcoming to the visitor curious about Arab and North African culture. After couscous, we turn right off Oberkampf onto Rue St-Maur. Our destination: Bague de Kenza, an outstanding Algerian pastry shop that looks more like a jewelry store. Inside, on gleaming trays, are arrangements of tiny nutty treats, with names like ''cornes de gazelle'' (gazelle horns) and ''doigts d'or'' (golden fingers). ''Ninety-five percent of what we make is traditional,'' says Monsieur Hocine, the shop manager. ''Moroccan pastries use flour. Algerian pastries mostly have a base of powdered almond and dried fruit.'' Pistachios, honey, and lemon or orange flower water figure heavily, too. His pastries are, in his words, ''more fine.'' No need to take his word for it. There are about two dozen gems to choose from, and all are super-sweet. In the window are displayed round puffy breads, spicy crepes spread with onions, tomatoes, and peppers called ''m'hadjeb'' (a perfect quick road snack), and dense, date-filled bars made from semolina, ''bradj,'' that we often stockpile to nosh on later. Down the street is Rue J.-P. Timbaud, which, if followed back east toward the boulevard, reveals an Arabic bookshop and a few ''salons du the'' where men play cards over dark coffee and mint tea, and smoke flavored tobacco, ''narguile,'' through gigantic hookahs. Women remain mostly out of sight, but devout men in full-length robes loiter outside the unassuming mosque on the square where Timbaud meets Rue Morand. Timbaud parallels Rue du Faubourg du Temple, the main shopping street. Here, Muslim butchers (for kosher-like ''halal'' eaters), discount clothing shops, and small grocers displaying sacks of semolina and mounds of pistachios and dates abound. In ''bazars'' you can pick up cheap household supplies, including decorated glass tea cups. At 33 Boulevard de la Villettte is Safraoui, a particularly well-stocked Tunisian shop. A lively outdoor market also appears every Tuesday and Friday morning on the median between Metro stops Belleville and Couronnes. Be prepared for serious crowds and lively salesmanship. You'll feel like a kilo of Tunisian dates crammed into a half-kilo bag. But the action, the colors, the noises, smells, and people-watching cannot be beat. For first-time visitors not quite ready to plunge into the bustle of an off-the-beaten path neighborhood, your visit might begin on the other bank at l'Institut du Monde Arabe. A striking, postmodernist metal and glass structure right where Boulevard Saint-Germain meets the Seine near Ile St-Louis, the institute is a one-stop crash course in the culture of 22 countries of the Arab world, including nations such as Turkey that were never colonized but are a source of immigrants. Inside its chic, steely exterior you'll find a book and gift shop, a media and language center, art exhibition, concert and conference space, a browsing library, two cafes and two restaurants, a cinema, and a full schedule of cultural activities. Some events are free, and most are in French; music and art speak their own language. The small yet impressive museum offers an overview of Arab and Muslim artifacts. The institute is also a useful place to review some history and terminology. ''Arab'' is an ethnic group. Before the spread of Islam and, with it, the Arabic language, ''Arab'' referred to any of the largely nomadic Semitic inhabitants of the Arabian Peninsula. These days, ''Arab'' embraces any of the Arabic-speaking peoples (in Paris, ''Arab'' is also synonymous with markets; as in New York, particular ethnic groups seem to corner the market on late-night convenience stores). A Muslim, or a country labeled Islamic, obviously refers to religion. In Paris, there are also tens of thousands of Muslims who are not Arabs (for example, Malians and Senegalese). French is often the lingua franca that connects the diaspora of the Muslim world. After the French colonies gained their independence in the 1950s and '60s, many Algerians, Moroccans, and Tunisians came to France. Many were invited to help the country rebuild after World War II. Of France's 60 million people, about 4 million, almost 7 percent, are Muslim, with an estimated 375,000 living and working in the Paris area. Second- and even third-generation children have established roots here, sharing more in common with their Caucasian French friends than with family in the old country. This is the face of modern France, what is known as ''black, blanc, beur'' (black, white, brown), and it reflects the impact of both North African and sub-Saharan immigration. If you ride the institute's sleek elevator to the top floor, from the terrace you'll be treated to a panoramic north-facing view of the city (and, if you care, a tea or full meal at the pricey Ziryab penthouse restaurant). Before you leave, be sure to get a good look at the south-facing facade that borders the courtyard. The entire wall is covered with 240 ingeniously designed panels covered with arabesque-inspired steel irises, which open and close in response to sunlight. The effect is one of being dazzled by an ultramodern magic carpet. A ceramics shop and Arab bookshops in the area take advantage of the institute's supply of visitors. Just steps from the institute is Atlas, a fine-dining version of Moroccan food in a wonderland setting. The elaborate tiling, fountains, and intricate plasterwork evoke royal palace, not Latin Quarter. Expressive ''tagines'' (stewed meats and vegetables cooked in conical clay pots) feature grouper, saffron, and mango, or pigeon and wild mushroom; both are fantastic. For the adventurous, there's a bran and mint soup (soupe de son), both bland and oddly soothing. Atlas doesn't shy away from desserts: The ''assiette gormande'' (greedy plate) mixes French faves like ice cream in a crepe with little Maghreb pastries. From here, it's not a far walk to La Mosquee de Paris, adjacent to the Jardin des Plantes and Natural History Museum. The mosque is another all-in-one cultural stop that, though located in a tonier, non-immigrant neighborhood, still oozes authenticity. There are seven mosques in Paris, but this is the granddaddy. Its elegant detail work in marble, tile, plaster, and Lebanese cedar was finished in 1926, all topped by an 85-foot minaret. Tour the gardens and courtyards yourself; with a guide, you can visit the library and lush meeting room, and learn about the Islamic tradition. Non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer area. To take off a Paris chill, the mosque complex is also home to a ''hammam,'' or day-spa. Enter and treat yourself to the eucalyptus steam room, a massage, waxing, black soap treatment, and a body scrub called ''gommage.'' Paris has loads of hammams, from the humble to the luxurious; for many residents, they are essential to combat the gray winter blahs. Near the hammam entrance, through the tea salon and restaurant, there's a boutique to turn your flat into a Berber palace. But a better option is a block away: Maison Franco-Orientale, an enchanting Moroccan arts and crafts depot. Glass and iron lanterns hang from the ceiling of the souk; shelves are stocked with pottery, textiles, jewelry, leather slippers, tiles, and spices. Robes and rugs hang from the walls; brass trays, mirrors, and mosaic tables lean everywhere. When you're done shopping, head back to the mosque, where two euros (about $2) gets you a tiny glass of mint tea and a seat at a blue-tiled table in the garden, surrounded by fig trees and singing birds. You can also stay for dinner. Just down the street is a cheaper idea: Telila, a low-key cafe for spicy sandwiches and salads, where you can also smoke a honey, apple, or vanilla ''narguile'' from an Arabian nights water pipe. As for night life, we like to bring visitors to 404, a destination restaurant on the edge of the gay Marais and working-class Beaubourg. We especially like their chicken-pear tagine and the pastry-filled fish pastilla appetizer. Your meal takes a back seat to the incomparable ambience: open kitchen, low tables, cushioned benches along the walls, dark beams, and palm frond shadows cast from feathery candlelight and metal lanterns. The cocktail of the house, a deadly mixture of mint tea, citrus juice, and booze, gets you in the grooving mood. By meal's end, the house music makes intimate conversation tricky, but the energy of the servers is infectious. Later, you can really rock La Casbah. This club, just east of Bastille, is in the furniture district of Paris, and by day several boutiques on and off Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine have Arab-inspired designs. By night, bars and dance spots throb. Come early to the Casbah to enjoy a cocktail or meal in its Casablanca-like setting - red candles, horseshoe archways, and belly dancers - or arrive sometime after midnight on weekends to boogie in the basement. Alternatively, begin your evening at Taninna, a traditional Algerian restaurant with its own cultural center, live music on stage, and starlit ceiling. Youcef, the gracious host, serves generous portions of dishes like ''ameqful n temzin,'' a barley-based couscous, alongside his hospitality. Mansouria, also in the neighborhood, is another elegant choice for dinner. Then end your evening at the nearby Casbah, which is open till dawn. Mahgrebi DJ music is found in many clubs across the city: look for ''rai,'' which is music based on Arabic love poetry and Bedouin folk tradition, performed either old-style or fused with funk and groove. Modern performers such as Khaled and Cheb Mami sing of alienation, poverty, and forbidden sexual desires - the Arab blues. If you're up for learning what the French call ''Oriental dance,'' courses are available at most dance studios. A centrally located one is the Centre de Danse du Marais. Two others nearer to the Bastille are the Studio Harmonic and the Centre des Arts Vivants. Classes at any of these studios can be taken a la carte, no pre-registration needed. ''Vas-y!'' Paris's version of the Arab world is just a few feet, or dance steps, away. If you go... How to get there The cheapest direct flights from Boston to Paris through October are on Air France, starting at $622. With a connection, the cheapest flights during the same period are on Icelandair, connecting through Reykjavik, starting at $412. What to do Postal codes in Paris show the district; i.e., 75005 is in the 5th arrondissement; phone numbers add 33, the country code, and drop the first zero when calling France from abroad. Currently, the euro is worth about 97 cents US. l'Institut du Monde Arabe 1 Rue des Fosses-Saint-Bernard, 75005 01 40 51 38 38; www.imarabe.org Open daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m., except Monday. Institute, free; museum, 3 euros, under 18 free. Ziryab restaurant, call 01 53 10 10 20 to reserve for dinner. La Mosquee de Paris 39 Rue Geoffroy St.-Hilaire, 75005 01 43 31 38 20 nour-l@wanadoo.fr Open daily except Friday, 9 a.m.-noon, 2 to 5:30 p.m. (winter), till 6:30 p.m. (summer). Admission: adults, 3 euros; students/children, 2 euros. Tea salon, boutique, hammam and various meal/hammam/ gommage packages available. Safraoui 33 Boulevard de la Villette, 75010 01 42 40 91 12 Maison Franco-Orientale 19 Rue Daubenton, 75005 01 47 07 07 57 Centre de Danse du Marais 41 Rue du Temple, 75004 01 42 72 15 42 www.parisdanse.com Studio Harmonic 5 Passage des Taillandiers, 75011 01 48 07 13 39 infos@studioharmonic.fr www.studioharmonic.fr/ index.html Le Centre des Arts Vivants 4 Rue Briguet, 75011 01 55 28 84 00 lecentre@lecentredesartsvivants .com; www.lecentredesarts vivants.com Where to stay Hotel Residence Saint Christophe 17 rue Lacepede, 75005 www.charm-hotel-paris.com Quality furnishings and a hint of luxury. Doubles: 96-123 euros, singles: 88-111 euros. Familia Hotel 11 Rue des Ecoles, 75005 01 43 54 55 27 familia.hotel@libertysurf.fr www.hotel-paris-familia.com Thirty rooms, some with elaborate balconies, Oriental rugs, murals. Doubles: 86-116 euros, singles 69. Hotel Gilden Magenta 35 rue Yves Toudic, 75010 01 42 40 17 72 hotel.gilden.magenta@multi- micro.com; www.multi-micro .com/hotel.gilden.magenta. Breakfast patio, and some rooms have a view onto the Canal St-Martin. Doubles 63-71 euros: singles: 55. Where to eat Average is price for three-course meal, not including wine. Restaurant des Quatres Freres 127 Boulevard de Menilmontant, 75011 01 43 55 40 91 Open seven days, lunch and dinner. Average: 10 euros. Bague de Kenza 106 Rue St-Maur, 75011 01 43 14 93 15 Pastries: 2-3 euros each. L'Atlas 12 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005 01 44 07 23 66 Open Tuesday-Sunday, noon-2.30 p.m., 7.30 p.m.-11.30 p.m. Average: 35 euros. 404 69 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003, 01 42 74 57 81 Open daily noon-2:30 p.m. and 8 p.m.-midnight. Average: 28 euros. For a special party, try to snag the corner roost accessible by a narrow staircase. Book ahead with the friendly English-speaking staff. La Casbah 18-20 Rue de la Forge Royale, 75011 01 43 71 04 39; ben.m@casbah.fr; www.casbah.fr Bar and restaurant open: Tuesday and Wednesday, 7:30 p.m.-2 a.m., Thursday to Saturday, 7:30 p.m.-5 a.m.; club: Thursday to Saturday from 11 p.m.-5 a.m. Taninna 14 Rue Abel, 75012 01 40 19 99 04 Open daily 8 p.m.-1 a.m. Average: 23 euros. Mansouria 11 Rue Faidherbe, 75011 01 43 71 00 16 Open Monday, Tuesday 7:30-11 p.m., Wednesday-Saturday noon-3 p.m., 7:30-11 p.m. Average: 45 euros. Ethan Gilsdorf is a freelance writer who lives in Paris. This story ran on page M1 of the Boston Globe on
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PARIS
- Few restaurants use a hair dryer in the preparation of your meal, but
Quatre Freres happens to be one of them. 
